Tag Archives: wine time

Storming the Castle

Today we all took the day off from skiing to do a little sightseeing and wine tasting around the Valley.

We started the day with a coffee and pastry at a bar across from the apartment (very traditional Italian breakfast) and then jumped in the car and headed down the valley. A bluebird day, much different than the wintry mix we drove up under, made the valley look a lot different and more inviting. At the base of the Ayas valley where we are staying is the town of Verres. There’s a pretty cool castle there you can see from the road so we decided to check it out. The drive took us through the old part of the town which was small but cute and still decorated from Carnivale. The castle sits above the old town on a hill (if you recall from a previous post you can see the neighboring castles along the valley so they sit up a little above the towns). The visit was very reasonable so we decided to go in. Glad we did, it was really well preserved and very cool. Nice view of the mountains too.

From the castle we took the autostrada to the regional capital Aosta. We had a nice walk through the historic area which includes the old Roman city walls and then had lunch. The mountains are visible all around the city.

Leaving Aosta after lunch we headed to a wine tasting appointment Jeff made for a winery called Grosjean. The winery is family run and one of the original modern day wineries in the Aosta region. The grandfather, Dauphine, started making wine in the late 60s, reviving a wine business in the region that had gone away in the previous century. Our visit was hosted by Simone, one of the grandchildren still active in running the family business. He was very knowledgeable and it was fascinating afternoon. The family, along with others in the region, are dedicated to bringing back many of the indignious grapes to the area that haven’t been cultivated in a long time. Their wine is available in the US (one of their whites is on the menu at Al’s Place in SF) so check it out!

We spent a while at the winery chatting with Simone and tasting the wines so when we finally left we decided to grab stuff for dinner at the grocery store down in the valley and cook a simple dinner at home. Dave, Sara and Jeff are confirmed on their helicopter tomorrow morning early so it’s a quiet night in Champoluc. Karen is headed to a spa and Christine and Nate have another day planned on the slopes.

Another Day, Some More Powder

Last night, we went out to Le Petit Coq so that we could share with our friends all of the wonderful attributes of cheese. We had some wonderful raclette and fondue with a few liters of wine.

After filling up on cheese, Sara, Jeff, and Dave spent our last day with our guide, Fabio, that came over from Chamonix.  After taking the funicular up we skied as fast as we could to make it over to the Punta Indren which is above Alagna.

This goes to the highest point of the Monterosa Ski Resort that is lift accessible.  At the top of the Gondola, we put our climbing harnesses which we thought was for skiing on the glacier. We were wrong…   We skied across the traverse, and hit the first of many side stepping portions which were quite exhausting. Once we got to the top, we arrived at our first open bowl area which had some relatively nice powder. We skied down a bit and hit another traverse. After side stepping to the top of the second traverse here, we realized what the harnesses were for.

  There was a very steep very tight chute that we were going to rappel down in our skis.

 The way this works is you ski down and clip on to the rope.  Then skiing backwards the guide slowly lowered us down in to the chute.  It was one of the gnarliest things I have ever done.  The photo below does not give any justice to how steep this was.

Once we got down to the bottom of the chute we got to a wide open bowl of untracked powder.

It was a bit crunchy below but was great skiing.  After getting to the bottom, we took a long traverse that also included a rope portion where we had to slowly lower ourselves through an icy chute in the woods.

This part was a hiking trail along a pretty stream and waterfall that had frozen over. After the hiking trail we joined up with a road that took us to a very small hamlet that had a parking lot and a pommel horse. We took the pommel up and then skied down the valley through backyards, across foot bridges and at least one little park. Once we arrive in Alagna, it was 2pm.  We left the house at 8am and we basically did one run.  With our legs shot, we needed to hurry back up the mountain to not get trapped in Alagna. It is a 6 hour drive from Alagna to Champoluc so rather than break for lunch we grabbed the gondola out of town. Once we got to the top of the Bettaforca, we finally stopped for lunch at 3pm.  It was a such an amazing time. Here’s our wrap photo.

Karen had a lovely day at the spa and Nate and Christine hit the piste runs. Tonight we are laying low in the cabin and Jeff is cooking us a delicious smelling polenta and mushroom dinner.

Le Petit Coq

Last night Christine and Nate got in around 11 after a few complications at Linate airport. We had a light dinner of bread, meats and cheeses and then shared the sweets we brought over from Chamonix.

This morning we woke up to a beautiful view of the mountains.

We met up with Fabio, our guide from Chamonix at 8:30. He’s from this area and used to guide here so offered to come over and guide us here. Fabio is the mayor of Champoluc, everyone knows him here. After grabbing a coffee at the bar and saying goodbye to Karen the six of us headed up the gondola.

We took a few lifts up and arrived to the ridge line between the valley we are staying in and the next valley over. Fabio led us through the off piste, it hasn’t snowed here in a while so the conditions were a little tricky. By the time we made it to the other side of the second valley it was lunch and we stopped at a great place with an amazing view of the Monte Rosa. After lunch we split up and Sara, Dave, Nate, Jeff and Fabio did another off piste run headed back to Champoluc. We came through this crazy couloir/gully that was beautiful and at the end we had to walk across an old avalanche path.

That’s Nate putting his board on after waking across the debris. It was so cool!

This resort, like everywhere we’ve been so far, is expansive. From lunch back to the base area we’re staying at took 3 hours. By the time we rolled into town it was time for Spritz and we met up with Karen and Christine at the bar next to our apartment. We settled with Fabio that tomorrow we’ll head all the way into Alagna, the third valley over to the east from here where it’s a little higher and hopefully the snow is a little softer. Tuesday we’re taking the day off from skiing to explore the region and Wednesday we and Jeff are going to go heliskiing . The route will take us back up to the Klien Matterhorn in Switzerland, down through Cervinia and finally back into Monte Rosa. It’s very exciting and we are all hoping for good weather.

Tonight we walked a little ways out of town to a restaurant called Le Petit Coq so we could experience fondue and raclette the Italian way. It was super fun and super delicious. The brisk walk back into town was much appreciated after our Italian-cheese fest.

Great Mountain, Bad Visibility

Not much to post today.  The highlight of the day was getting the washing machine to work.  We had so much laundry and it is great to get it all clean.  Having a place with a kitchen means that we have been trying to eat in.  Last night we made some Salmon and Romanesco.  It was great to eat something fairly plain.

This morning we headed over to Grand Montets to ski.  It is about 15 minutes outside of town and came highly recomended from the Davidsons.  When we arrived, it was snowing pretty good.  The conditions were great but the visibility was not.  When you are in the clouds, it is snowing, and there are no trees, it is impossible to determine what is up and down.  Undeterred, we skied a few runs from almost the top, but decided not to go all the way up because it was just too hard to see.  We skied for about 3 or 4 hours and decided that it was getting too hard to see.  The takeaways from our first day here in Chamonix is that the snow is fantastic and the mountain is really fun.  They are expecting to get about 30 cm tonight so conditions should be fantastic tomorrow.  We have a reservation to take the highest tram at Grand Montets tomorrow. Hopefully we will get some great photos/video of the good conditions for our loyal followers.  Tonight we are going to make some pasta with leftover romanesco.  Yum!

Planes, Trains, and Electric Automobiles

After our amazing lounge experience we described in our previous post, it was finally time to board the flight. Of course, the most important part of the flight was our celebration champagne.

Click Me!

With the champagne out of the way we had about 10 hours to kill. As expected, Sara slept through basically the whole thing. For Dave, he continues to battle a cold and barely slept a wink. Once we landed in Zurich, getting through passport control and customs was a breeze. Our bags were on the conveyor before we arrived so there was no waiting. I think we mentioned that we brought quite a few bags for our trip.

After leaving the airport, we stopped by the Sunrise cellphone store to buy a SIM card. BTW, it is very cheap here. $2.50 per day for unlimited talk and data. Hopefully we find something similar in France and Italy.

Once we got to the train platform we prepared ourselves for the first difficult part of our trip. Loading all of our gear on to the train. As the trained approached, we mentally prepared ourselves for getting all the bags on to the train in the short window of time before it left the station. Luckily the first train was a breeze and the next stop was Visp.

Things got interesting once we got to Visp. Again, as we approached the station, Sara and I mentally prepared for the transfer. At this station there were no carts and we had to transfer platforms. Upon exiting the train, we were shocked to see people in an all out sprint trying to make the transfer. With our bags in tow, we walked briskly carrying at least four bags each trying to make the train. While we were the last ones on, we made it!  Now we had one hour left until we finally made it to our destination.

The new train we boarded was significantly different from the sleak modern quiet train we took from Zurich. These trains were significantly older and had quite a bit of character. While we didn’t get any picture of the train itself, we did get a photo of the track. 

As you can see from the photo this was a cog train.  The gauge of the rail was a bit narrower and the cogs in the center are due to the steepness of the route.  In just over an hour we climbed from just over 500m to over 2000m.  Unfortunately, due to the late hour of our travel we weren’t able to see much, but you could tell that it was beautiful. Once we arrived in Zermatt it was off to the hotel in a small electric shuttle/cab.  Like a glorified golf cart the electrical shuttle whisked Sara and I quickly up to the hotel and we finally checked in.  Interestingly, we shared the shuttle with one of Dave’s company’s client, who we ended up spending quite a bit of time in the bar chatting with. Great people!

As it is the weekend, finding a place to eat was not easy.  Luckily, the friendly hotel staff got us in to the Factory at Hotel Post at the last minute.  The food wasn’t that great but the caprese salad and pizza we ate filled the voids in our stomachs after the long journey.

As I (Dave) lay here in bed at 5 am unable to sleep longer, I look forward to a fun day of exploring Zermatt and getting our first day of skiing in.  Hopefully, I can shake this terrible cold that I’m dealing with.  Stay tuned for more updates.