Tag Archives: Weather

I Guess We Are Shipping Wine

After struggling to find something to eat for lunch yesterday and enjoying our home aperitivo, we headed on the town to find something to eat for dinner.  We ended up at Ristorante La Bricola next door to where we ate dinner the first night.  To be honest, we were a bit underwhelmed by the food.  Additionally, the bottle of wine we got was border line turned, but we waited too long before we both agreed it wasn’t good.

This morning we woke up and saw that a glimmer of hope that the rain would finally subside.  Unfortunately, we were wrong.

Luckily for us, we had a fun day planned of wine tasting and eating Italian food so it didn’t matter what the weather was like.  Our first stop was Montemecurio just outside of town.  When we pulled up, a scruffy teenager with an eye patch wearing sweat pants answered the door and looked at us very confused.  Concerned we had pulled up to somebody’s house and not a winery, we started to slowly backup.  In broken English, the teenager told us to wait.  After waiting outside the front door for two minutes, Irene came out and welcomed us into the house.  While it looked like a house, it was indeed the correct place.  The wine operation consists of 3 people.  One for the field, one for the winery, and one for the office.  Irene was an absolute pleasure to taste with.  She was quite gregarious and loved talking with us about skiing.  She stressed the importance of a bit of grappa before you hit the slopes.  Here we tasted 6 bottles of wine include a white and rose which is very rare in this red dominated region.  Everything was delicious and so affordable.  We ended up walking away with a half case.

After our first tasting, we headed to our lunch reservation in Monticchiello at Osteria La Porta.

Apparently, most people come to this little hill top village just for this restaraunt.  We were not disappointed.  Between the bacalla appetizier or the Cacio Pepe Gnocchi, everything was so good.  The atmosphere was also quite fun with a young temptress sitting behind us attempting to seduce the young waiter.  This included passing notes and lots of giggling.  Sara said she could have dressed cuter.  The staff was also quite generous here, they even gave us our half liter of wine for free.

After lunch, we headed back to the apartment for a quick rest before our next tasting.  Dave fell asleep during this time for a few minutes, because as you know, tasting wine is exhausting.  Refreshed and ready to go, we headed up to Gattevechi which is located right in town.

We met Daniela who is the one of three siblings who run the winery. In addition to working in the family business, Daniela used to teach Italian to foreign students at a school in Montepulciano so she was very excited about speaking with Sara and complimented her quite a bit on her Italian. They also spoke about their shared interest in vintage Cinecitta films.  Similar to other places in town, they had an extensive cellar that dates back to 300 BC.

After touring their small crypt, we tasted the wines.  Again, everything was quite good.  Daniella offered to help us ship all of our wine back including the bottles we purchased at other locations.

All in all, we ended up with two cases.

During our tasting, it finally stopped raining and the sun came out.  We now sit in our apartment for one last night and are looking at a beautiful sunset.  Tonight we are going to cook in.

Tomorrow we head to Assisi.

Under the Tuscan Sun

The sun was shining this morning in Florence as we packed up for our next part of the trip.

There were lots of people out and about enjoying the weather, biking and running. We had a quick breakfast at the hotel and drove out of town in the direction of Siena with the hilltop town of Montepulciano our destination for today. The route out of Florence took us up into the hills on the Oltrearno side of town by the Pitti Palace and then into the Tuscan countryside. We passed lots of wineries and farms, a bike race and some very heavy industrial zones. When Sara spotted San Giminigano from the highway we decided to take a detour and stop there to look around. It was quiet and parking was easy so we spent an hour or so walking around and even had a gelato because the sun was out and it has warmed up considerably.

We got to admire all the towers and medieval alleys pretty much by ourselves. Sara also made this classic Cinecitta tribute short video

Leaving San Giminigano we got back on the highway, passing by Siena and Volterra on our way to Montepulciano. When we got into town our super nice Airbnb host, Lucca met us and caravanned with us up to the apartment because it’s in a restricted traffic area. This town is so cool and the apartment location is great. You enter the town about halfway down the hill and the walls enclose the rest of it around the top of the hill. The apartment is on the edge of town so the view out the windows is down onto the valley and smaller hills. Also, one of the big cantinas producing vino Nobile (the local wine) is literally across the street from the front door. We walked around a little and had lunch in at a very nice place called Le Lodge di Vignola. The plan was to eat dinner in but all the grocery stores in town are closed because it’s Sunday afternoon so we will probably have a light dinner out. Tomorrow the plan is to take a drive through the surrounding country and visit a winery in the afternoon.

Heliskiing Revisted

So we were pretty tired yesterday, so we left a very short post.  Sorry about that, we were really tired.  So here is how yesterday went.

Jeff, Sara, and Dave woke up and were all nervously excited about our day ahead.  We got dressed and under Dave’s direction showed up to our first lift 30 minutes early.  We took the funicular up followed by two chairs.  Once we got to the top, we had a short hike to reach the area where the helicopter picks us up.  We met our guide Loris and he took all of our skis and tied them in to a bundle.  As the helicopter arrived our skis were placed in the rack and we all jumped aboard.  Within seconds, the helicopter was off.  As we pulled away, the force of acceleration and turning was quite intense and we all looked at each other in excitement. The video yesterday doesn’t really do justice to how amazing the view was, weaving in and out of the peaks just below 14K feet. Once we got to the top, we quickly unloaded and dropped to the ground to allow for the helicopter to take off.  The whole process was quite organized with the helicopter only on the ground for pickup/drop off for no longer than 15 seconds. The ride was so short we thought there might have been a mix up and that we weren’t actually going to drop down into Zermatt but we were actually in the right place, high up along a ridge line separating Italy and Switzerland.

From there, we clipped into our skis and started a very long traverse around the peak to reach the Col that drops into Zermatt.  At the top of the Col as the resort came into view, we realized how much higher we were than the Klien Matterhorn Tram which is the highest ski lift in Europe (3800m). Once we finished our traverse the wide open Col was somewhat chopped up but the snow conditions were quite nice.  The powder was maybe mid shin deep.  Once we got a bit lower, our guide took us off the beaten path to an area of wide open untracked powder.  He said he preferred not to follow the tracks. We said that was fine by us.

There wasn’t anywhere to place a Jake sticker in all that wide open but we brought one just the same.

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Once we got to the bottom of the glacier we were back in Zermatt where had we started our trip back on February 2nd. It was quite surreal to be back on the lifts where we started this trip.  We took the Matterhorn Glacier Express and the Klien Matterhorn backup to the top and headed towards Cervinia to ski back to Champoluc.   As this area sits in the sun all day, the snow was quite crunchy. Also, it was quite cold at -24C.  We ended up deciding to skip lunch to try to take advantage of what good conditions remained.  We chowed down a cliff bar and after a brief pause at the edge of Cervinia headed back down the hill.  While the snow conditions weren’t great, the skiing was still very fun and the terrain stunning. We crossed glaciers, frozen rivers, forests, abandoned stone buildings and an old aqueduct. The end of the run was a very long traverse that took us back to the last town in the Ayas valley, Saint Jacques, just above Champoluc. By this time, Dave’s legs were completely destroyed and quite tired from all the long days of skiing.  Luckily we made it to the bottom of the hill unscathed.  At the bottom, we walked over to the bar to grab a spritz to finish out the day.  With the purchase of the spritz came a ride in the Fiat Panda back to the parking lot where we had left the car. All in all we skied 40 Km across two countries and three resorts. Pretty rad day!

Overall, heliskiing was amazing.  If we had unlimited funds, it would definitely be our new preferred way to access ski terrain.

Today we had a fun, mellow day on piste with Jeff, Christine and Nate. It’s snowing pretty hard so visibility was low. Took it easy cruising around and then enjoyed a nice lunch. We love this place and it will be hard to leave.

Last Day in Chamonix

So our day started somewhat no great today.  We woke up and it was still raining. We packed up and headed off to Grand Montets hoping to ski our last day here. When we got there, we learned that the gondola was broken and the Tram had a queue over 2 hours long.  We decided that it wasn’t worth it to wait. The other resorts are much lower and with the rain limit at 2000m, they would all be getting rain instead of snow.   Therefore, we headed back to the condo. Instead of skiing, we decided to go to the sports center to run.  After our run, we came back for a quiet lunch at the house of bread and of course cheese.

After lunch, we headed out to explore the town one last time.

Chamonix, it’s been grand. Until next time.

Zermatt- it’s a wrap!

Our last day full day in Zermatt, here’s the recap.

Last night we walked around the town a bit, it really is so pretty here. There’s a lovely church where all the mountaineers of yesteryear are buried and right next door is the town hall and police station. And this!

Also the world’s largest Alphorn. 

We grabbed drinks in a cool bar tucked inside the Old Zermatt restauarant and also ran into our ski guide David there. If anyone is thinking about coming to Zermatt we highly recommend booking a guide through David and his outfit Alpine Exposure. Super nice guy and he found us a powder stash. Yay!

After drinks we had pasta at Pizzeria Roma up the street. Super low key and friendly spot for a comfort food pasta dinner.

This morning we got up early, had breakfast and hit the mountain for our last day. Unfortunately there was weather around the Matterhorn so we weren’t able to go up to the glacier again but it was ok, there is PLENTY of skiing to be had even without the upper, upper mountain. We stuck to the western side of the valley, northern facing slopes which were protected from the storms that tend to come up and over from Italy. We skied the little cable car as everyone seems to refer to it, it’s a peak to peak relic that provides access to a ton of off piste skiing. So fun! Dave tried to make a gopro video but unfortunately just got great shots of his feet.

We also had some important business to attend to today. As many of you know, we put a sticker for Jake up at every resort we visit in Europe. (Sorry this photo is a little wonky but there was a patrol hut right next door and they were giving me the side eye.) Jake loved to ski and travel so we like to think we’re bringing him along with us on a bunch of fun adventures. We hope you enjoy the view of the Matterhorn, Jakey, miss you all the time.

After skiing the off piste area a few times we broke for lunch in Riffelberg. The snow train makes a stop here, I’m obsessed with this little train.

 

 

We ate lunch at the cafeteria again today, with the market tanking in the US and Switzerland being mad expensive we stuck with soup and water. But hey, at least it was soup with a view!

The weather got significantly worse after lunch so with our tired legs, we decided to ski just a little bit more and then make our way back down to the village, about 3000 vertical feet 🙂

We’ve been staying at the lovely Matterhorn Lodge and Apartments here in town. The staff; Ruth, Flo and Lea have all been so lovely and the room and lobby are both great. Tonight they surprised us with Apres in front of the fireplace. (…California, who dis?)

We will post about our dinner tonight tomorrow (hint: cheese of course).  Tomorrow we are off to our next adventure in Verbier.  This will be the last time we have to take our bags on the train.  Wish us luck!

Packing

T-minus five days until we leave.  Today we did the difficult task of trying to figure out what we are going to need for two months including 24 days of skiing.  Even more difficult, we had to figure out how to make it fit in our bags.  Luckily we practiced and came up with a good list and were able to make things fit.

The forecast for skiing looks pretty amazing.  Our first resort has already been evacuated twice because of two much snow.  With the weather we have been having in California that is a breath of fresh air.  Check out the snow report from Zermatt for today and the weather forecast going once we get there.