Tag Archives: The Struggle Is Real

Quiet Day

This morning we woke up a bit earlier than usual to hit the gym. After running for a half hour we headed up for breakfast before hitting the town.

We set out on a walk with no particular destination in mind. We started by crossing the Academia bridge and journeyed around until we crossed the Rialto. The Academia bridge is currently being restored. Our trip took us through the neighborhoods of Dosoduro and Santa Croce.

After walking for about three to four hours we stumbled in to a wine bar, Vino Vero, we found on our last trip. It was one of the highlights of our last trip so we were excited to find it again. They have tons of bruschettas. They also advertise that they don’t have spritz because they love wine. Their selection is quite good both by the glass and bottle which they sell to take away as well. It’s along the Fondamenta Misericordia in Canneregio.

After we finished at Vino Vero we started to make our way leisurely back towards the hotel. We stopped at another bar on the way for more snacks. It’s like tapas in Barcelona where you can eat a little bite and then move on and eat a little more. All delicious bites on toast and a reason to stop for a little while on the walk. In the second bar we met a law student from Israel who lives in Bologna but comes to Venice to buy his supplies for Passover. The ghetto in Venice is still one of the largest Jewish communities in Italy. Nice guy, bought us each a little shooter of wine they drink here called an ‘Ombra.’ (Note: top photo is from google just to show what the ‘Ombra’ looks like)

Our day of laying low had us walking over 20,000 steps. We enjoyed many bars and was able to escape most of the rain. Also tonight we are expecting 1.2 meters of Aqua Alta around 11:30PM so the walkways are up. As we passed through San Marco the water was already bubbling up through the storm grates across the piazza. Gladly we will be back safely at our hotel before the alarm rings. (Anything over 110cm of high tide the alarm rings all over Venice  to let people know it’s coming so they can get to where they need to be.) The walkways cover heavily trafficked routes in the the areas that are most prone to flooding.

Tomorrow is our last full day of the Sabbatical and we are understandably sad to see it end. Tomorrow we will try to get emotional and “shmoopy” about the trip unless we get too busy. If that happens you all will have to wait.

The Final Frontier

Today we left Verona and headed for Venice.  Along the way we stopped in Padova for a quick stop over.  It was a beautiful day in Padova with everybody out and about.  We tried to go to the Scrovegni Chapel, but they were booked for the day. Instead we headed over to the Church of Saint Anthony.  After walking around a bit we walked over to the Duomo before stopping at a cafe for a quick bite to eat.

Back on the road, the drive from Padova to Venice was very short.  Once we returned the car at the airport we took a water taxi to our hotel. Sara worked really hard to get us into our hotel here, the Hotel Gritti. After all of her travel we were able to use points to book a hotel that is a bit nicer than we deserve.  We walked around a bit but did some chores mostly once we got here.

Old Stuff and Coastal Drives

Last night after settling into the hotel we headed to Oasi for dinner.  Being down south and close to the ocean, it is great to have non-pasta seafood meals. The entire area is pretty quiet. Most places appeared quite shuttered.  Overall everything was good.

This morning we woke up and went on a run around the ancient town of Paestum.  We actually got very lucky as it started raining very hard as soon as we got back to the hotel.  We had some breakfast and it was time to enter the ancient town of Paestum just as the rain cleared and the sun came out.

The ruins reminded us of Pompeii; however, some were in much better shape including the temples.  It was mind blowing to be standing in a temple that was built nearly 2,500 years ago.  Throughout the town there are a ton of stray dogs.  Some were quite cute.  Of course, we kept our distance even though they appeared friendly.  

After walking the ruins we headed in to the museum next door. It was quite impressive all of the frescos they were able to recover.

After we saw the sights, we hit the road to find a small costal town for lunch.  Below Paestum there is a large national park that is also a UNESCO site called Cilento. It sort of looks like Amalfi with towns tucked into little coves but the hills are more gentle. We drove the coastal route which is really, really beautiful but also pretty windy so we were happy to not encounter too much traffic. Our first attempt to find lunch brought us to a beautiful seaside locale; however, everything was closed up tight.  Luckily we were able to find a place in the nearby town right on the water called Cefalu. The family who ran the hotel and restaurant have a sister in San Diego who owns a restaurant in Cardiff called Trattoria Positano. They were nice and we chatted about their trips visiting California, they told us we had to come back sometime when it’s Summer. We would happily come back here.

Francesco I think they mean Francisco

This morning we woke up with the plan to see the large church built to house the remains of Francesco.

 After walking through the town, we made it to the church and queued up our Rick Steve’s guided tour audio and set about the church.

It is quite impressive how large and the number of Frescos here.

Francesco started the Franciscan movement and also appreciated nature including animals.

After the church, Sara wasn’t feeling too hot.  The cold we both battled has turned out to be quite a doozy.  Therefore, we took a scenic walk back to the apartment and stopped to get the fixings to make some vegetable soup. After lunch, we tried to take it is easy so Sara can rest up and feel better.

Tonight we have to dinner at Ristorante il Vicoletto.

I Guess We Are Shipping Wine

After struggling to find something to eat for lunch yesterday and enjoying our home aperitivo, we headed on the town to find something to eat for dinner.  We ended up at Ristorante La Bricola next door to where we ate dinner the first night.  To be honest, we were a bit underwhelmed by the food.  Additionally, the bottle of wine we got was border line turned, but we waited too long before we both agreed it wasn’t good.

This morning we woke up and saw that a glimmer of hope that the rain would finally subside.  Unfortunately, we were wrong.

Luckily for us, we had a fun day planned of wine tasting and eating Italian food so it didn’t matter what the weather was like.  Our first stop was Montemecurio just outside of town.  When we pulled up, a scruffy teenager with an eye patch wearing sweat pants answered the door and looked at us very confused.  Concerned we had pulled up to somebody’s house and not a winery, we started to slowly backup.  In broken English, the teenager told us to wait.  After waiting outside the front door for two minutes, Irene came out and welcomed us into the house.  While it looked like a house, it was indeed the correct place.  The wine operation consists of 3 people.  One for the field, one for the winery, and one for the office.  Irene was an absolute pleasure to taste with.  She was quite gregarious and loved talking with us about skiing.  She stressed the importance of a bit of grappa before you hit the slopes.  Here we tasted 6 bottles of wine include a white and rose which is very rare in this red dominated region.  Everything was delicious and so affordable.  We ended up walking away with a half case.

After our first tasting, we headed to our lunch reservation in Monticchiello at Osteria La Porta.

Apparently, most people come to this little hill top village just for this restaraunt.  We were not disappointed.  Between the bacalla appetizier or the Cacio Pepe Gnocchi, everything was so good.  The atmosphere was also quite fun with a young temptress sitting behind us attempting to seduce the young waiter.  This included passing notes and lots of giggling.  Sara said she could have dressed cuter.  The staff was also quite generous here, they even gave us our half liter of wine for free.

After lunch, we headed back to the apartment for a quick rest before our next tasting.  Dave fell asleep during this time for a few minutes, because as you know, tasting wine is exhausting.  Refreshed and ready to go, we headed up to Gattevechi which is located right in town.

We met Daniela who is the one of three siblings who run the winery. In addition to working in the family business, Daniela used to teach Italian to foreign students at a school in Montepulciano so she was very excited about speaking with Sara and complimented her quite a bit on her Italian. They also spoke about their shared interest in vintage Cinecitta films.  Similar to other places in town, they had an extensive cellar that dates back to 300 BC.

After touring their small crypt, we tasted the wines.  Again, everything was quite good.  Daniella offered to help us ship all of our wine back including the bottles we purchased at other locations.

All in all, we ended up with two cases.

During our tasting, it finally stopped raining and the sun came out.  We now sit in our apartment for one last night and are looking at a beautiful sunset.  Tonight we are going to cook in.

Tomorrow we head to Assisi.

Heliskiing Photos

Here are the photos from our heliskiing a few days back.

Heliskiing Revisted

So we were pretty tired yesterday, so we left a very short post.  Sorry about that, we were really tired.  So here is how yesterday went.

Jeff, Sara, and Dave woke up and were all nervously excited about our day ahead.  We got dressed and under Dave’s direction showed up to our first lift 30 minutes early.  We took the funicular up followed by two chairs.  Once we got to the top, we had a short hike to reach the area where the helicopter picks us up.  We met our guide Loris and he took all of our skis and tied them in to a bundle.  As the helicopter arrived our skis were placed in the rack and we all jumped aboard.  Within seconds, the helicopter was off.  As we pulled away, the force of acceleration and turning was quite intense and we all looked at each other in excitement. The video yesterday doesn’t really do justice to how amazing the view was, weaving in and out of the peaks just below 14K feet. Once we got to the top, we quickly unloaded and dropped to the ground to allow for the helicopter to take off.  The whole process was quite organized with the helicopter only on the ground for pickup/drop off for no longer than 15 seconds. The ride was so short we thought there might have been a mix up and that we weren’t actually going to drop down into Zermatt but we were actually in the right place, high up along a ridge line separating Italy and Switzerland.

From there, we clipped into our skis and started a very long traverse around the peak to reach the Col that drops into Zermatt.  At the top of the Col as the resort came into view, we realized how much higher we were than the Klien Matterhorn Tram which is the highest ski lift in Europe (3800m). Once we finished our traverse the wide open Col was somewhat chopped up but the snow conditions were quite nice.  The powder was maybe mid shin deep.  Once we got a bit lower, our guide took us off the beaten path to an area of wide open untracked powder.  He said he preferred not to follow the tracks. We said that was fine by us.

There wasn’t anywhere to place a Jake sticker in all that wide open but we brought one just the same.

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Once we got to the bottom of the glacier we were back in Zermatt where had we started our trip back on February 2nd. It was quite surreal to be back on the lifts where we started this trip.  We took the Matterhorn Glacier Express and the Klien Matterhorn backup to the top and headed towards Cervinia to ski back to Champoluc.   As this area sits in the sun all day, the snow was quite crunchy. Also, it was quite cold at -24C.  We ended up deciding to skip lunch to try to take advantage of what good conditions remained.  We chowed down a cliff bar and after a brief pause at the edge of Cervinia headed back down the hill.  While the snow conditions weren’t great, the skiing was still very fun and the terrain stunning. We crossed glaciers, frozen rivers, forests, abandoned stone buildings and an old aqueduct. The end of the run was a very long traverse that took us back to the last town in the Ayas valley, Saint Jacques, just above Champoluc. By this time, Dave’s legs were completely destroyed and quite tired from all the long days of skiing.  Luckily we made it to the bottom of the hill unscathed.  At the bottom, we walked over to the bar to grab a spritz to finish out the day.  With the purchase of the spritz came a ride in the Fiat Panda back to the parking lot where we had left the car. All in all we skied 40 Km across two countries and three resorts. Pretty rad day!

Overall, heliskiing was amazing.  If we had unlimited funds, it would definitely be our new preferred way to access ski terrain.

Today we had a fun, mellow day on piste with Jeff, Christine and Nate. It’s snowing pretty hard so visibility was low. Took it easy cruising around and then enjoyed a nice lunch. We love this place and it will be hard to leave.

Photos from our Ski Guide in Italy

Here are all the photos from our ski guide the first two days at Monterosa.

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Another Day, Some More Powder

Last night, we went out to Le Petit Coq so that we could share with our friends all of the wonderful attributes of cheese. We had some wonderful raclette and fondue with a few liters of wine.

After filling up on cheese, Sara, Jeff, and Dave spent our last day with our guide, Fabio, that came over from Chamonix.  After taking the funicular up we skied as fast as we could to make it over to the Punta Indren which is above Alagna.

This goes to the highest point of the Monterosa Ski Resort that is lift accessible.  At the top of the Gondola, we put our climbing harnesses which we thought was for skiing on the glacier. We were wrong…   We skied across the traverse, and hit the first of many side stepping portions which were quite exhausting. Once we got to the top, we arrived at our first open bowl area which had some relatively nice powder. We skied down a bit and hit another traverse. After side stepping to the top of the second traverse here, we realized what the harnesses were for.

  There was a very steep very tight chute that we were going to rappel down in our skis.

 The way this works is you ski down and clip on to the rope.  Then skiing backwards the guide slowly lowered us down in to the chute.  It was one of the gnarliest things I have ever done.  The photo below does not give any justice to how steep this was.

Once we got down to the bottom of the chute we got to a wide open bowl of untracked powder.

It was a bit crunchy below but was great skiing.  After getting to the bottom, we took a long traverse that also included a rope portion where we had to slowly lower ourselves through an icy chute in the woods.

This part was a hiking trail along a pretty stream and waterfall that had frozen over. After the hiking trail we joined up with a road that took us to a very small hamlet that had a parking lot and a pommel horse. We took the pommel up and then skied down the valley through backyards, across foot bridges and at least one little park. Once we arrive in Alagna, it was 2pm.  We left the house at 8am and we basically did one run.  With our legs shot, we needed to hurry back up the mountain to not get trapped in Alagna. It is a 6 hour drive from Alagna to Champoluc so rather than break for lunch we grabbed the gondola out of town. Once we got to the top of the Bettaforca, we finally stopped for lunch at 3pm.  It was a such an amazing time. Here’s our wrap photo.

Karen had a lovely day at the spa and Nate and Christine hit the piste runs. Tonight we are laying low in the cabin and Jeff is cooking us a delicious smelling polenta and mushroom dinner.