Tag Archives: Snow Report

Change of Plans

This morning we woke up to a winter wonderland up in the little medieval village. The forecast had snow overnight but we were very surprised by how much stuck, about 10 cm by 7am when we first opened the shutters. It was going to be an interesting ride out down the hill to the highway.

As Dave was warming up the car we got a message from our Airbnb host at a farm in the hills above Lucca. They were completely snowed in and their road was impassable, a big snow storm like this really is out of the ordinary here and so they offered us a refund and recommended we stay in the city where the roads would be cleared. We decided to head straight to Florence and called the hotel where we had booked the weekend. They said no problem the room was ready so we said good bye to the little medieval village and started the drive down the hill.

Luckily Dave has lots of snow driving experience as the road was narrow, twisty and unplowed. We got about halfway down before we hit a small uphill section and couldn’t get traction. Unfortunately the chains the rental agency gave us did not fit the car so we had to go without. It took us about 30 minutes of trying to get up the small, steep incline without sliding accidentally off the side and down into the valley but we made it. After that it was pretty mellow down to the autostrada and then once we got on that it was really easy, everything had been freshly plowed and the road was completely clear as if it hadn’t snowed at all.

It took about 2 hours to get until Florence (a much easier experience than getting into Genova even with the weather.) All the schools are closed and a lot of offices so everyone was out and about playing with sleds and getting in snowball fights. Our hotel is very close to the historic center but has a private parking lot. The room is nice and comfortable with a pretty view of the hills.

We had a boatload of laundry to do so we found a laundromat and had a very nice lunch around the corner while we waited for everything to finish. Lunch was at Trattoria Cantinetta Allegri.

Now we are back at the apartment resting and warming up before heading out this evening to see some sights and have dinner.

Another Day, Some More Powder

Last night, we went out to Le Petit Coq so that we could share with our friends all of the wonderful attributes of cheese. We had some wonderful raclette and fondue with a few liters of wine.

After filling up on cheese, Sara, Jeff, and Dave spent our last day with our guide, Fabio, that came over from Chamonix.  After taking the funicular up we skied as fast as we could to make it over to the Punta Indren which is above Alagna.

This goes to the highest point of the Monterosa Ski Resort that is lift accessible.  At the top of the Gondola, we put our climbing harnesses which we thought was for skiing on the glacier. We were wrong…   We skied across the traverse, and hit the first of many side stepping portions which were quite exhausting. Once we got to the top, we arrived at our first open bowl area which had some relatively nice powder. We skied down a bit and hit another traverse. After side stepping to the top of the second traverse here, we realized what the harnesses were for.

  There was a very steep very tight chute that we were going to rappel down in our skis.

 The way this works is you ski down and clip on to the rope.  Then skiing backwards the guide slowly lowered us down in to the chute.  It was one of the gnarliest things I have ever done.  The photo below does not give any justice to how steep this was.

Once we got down to the bottom of the chute we got to a wide open bowl of untracked powder.

It was a bit crunchy below but was great skiing.  After getting to the bottom, we took a long traverse that also included a rope portion where we had to slowly lower ourselves through an icy chute in the woods.

This part was a hiking trail along a pretty stream and waterfall that had frozen over. After the hiking trail we joined up with a road that took us to a very small hamlet that had a parking lot and a pommel horse. We took the pommel up and then skied down the valley through backyards, across foot bridges and at least one little park. Once we arrive in Alagna, it was 2pm.  We left the house at 8am and we basically did one run.  With our legs shot, we needed to hurry back up the mountain to not get trapped in Alagna. It is a 6 hour drive from Alagna to Champoluc so rather than break for lunch we grabbed the gondola out of town. Once we got to the top of the Bettaforca, we finally stopped for lunch at 3pm.  It was a such an amazing time. Here’s our wrap photo.

Karen had a lovely day at the spa and Nate and Christine hit the piste runs. Tonight we are laying low in the cabin and Jeff is cooking us a delicious smelling polenta and mushroom dinner.

Last Day in Chamonix

So our day started somewhat no great today.  We woke up and it was still raining. We packed up and headed off to Grand Montets hoping to ski our last day here. When we got there, we learned that the gondola was broken and the Tram had a queue over 2 hours long.  We decided that it wasn’t worth it to wait. The other resorts are much lower and with the rain limit at 2000m, they would all be getting rain instead of snow.   Therefore, we headed back to the condo. Instead of skiing, we decided to go to the sports center to run.  After our run, we came back for a quiet lunch at the house of bread and of course cheese.

After lunch, we headed out to explore the town one last time.

Chamonix, it’s been grand. Until next time.

Rain Rain Go Away

Today we one up to a fairly steady rain in town.  We knew it was snowing pretty good at elevation so we made our way over to Grand Montets.  When we arrived, the high tram was closed due to heavy snow and wind.  We took one trip up the gondola and skied down. The snow conditions were good but the visibility was terrible due to heavy snow.  If it was our first powder day, we probably would have kept skiing but we didn’t feel like we needed to push it. Therefore, we headed back to the apartment. To lay low for the afternoon. Hopefully tomorrow we get some better weather.

Great Mountain, Bad Visibility

Not much to post today.  The highlight of the day was getting the washing machine to work.  We had so much laundry and it is great to get it all clean.  Having a place with a kitchen means that we have been trying to eat in.  Last night we made some Salmon and Romanesco.  It was great to eat something fairly plain.

This morning we headed over to Grand Montets to ski.  It is about 15 minutes outside of town and came highly recomended from the Davidsons.  When we arrived, it was snowing pretty good.  The conditions were great but the visibility was not.  When you are in the clouds, it is snowing, and there are no trees, it is impossible to determine what is up and down.  Undeterred, we skied a few runs from almost the top, but decided not to go all the way up because it was just too hard to see.  We skied for about 3 or 4 hours and decided that it was getting too hard to see.  The takeaways from our first day here in Chamonix is that the snow is fantastic and the mountain is really fun.  They are expecting to get about 30 cm tonight so conditions should be fantastic tomorrow.  We have a reservation to take the highest tram at Grand Montets tomorrow. Hopefully we will get some great photos/video of the good conditions for our loyal followers.  Tonight we are going to make some pasta with leftover romanesco.  Yum!

The Most Magical Place on Earth

Woke up this morning like woah!

Since we got in after dark last night we did not notice the giant Matterhorn massif looming directly over our hotel. And it is so spectacular. Here’s a closer look.

Pretty cool right? Here’s one even closer.

(JK, although this was my favorite ride at Disneyland growing up. Inspiration for the trip maybe?)

Seriously though this place is gorgeous. The town is really cute and I bet it is amazing here in the summer. And the skiing area is huge- it connects with Cervinia in Italy so you can really ski all the way around the massif on one pass. Today we stuck to a relatively small portion of the resort which still required a solid 45 minute high speed gondola ride. The snow is great and there is more in the forecast tomorrow and Monday. Avalanche danger is moderate however so we stuck pretty close to the groomers. Still found fresh powder though! (Sorry everyone skiing Tahoe this weekend)

No sight of this guy yet but we will be here for 4 more days.

We are staying at the Hotel Matterhorn Zermatt, centrally located and really nice (feels newly renovated?) Today on the hill we had lunch at Riffelberg with a lovely view of the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa. No photos though and also it was –24 degrees Celsius.

There can only be one cure for -24 degrees Celsius and that is copious amounts of cheese. This cheese-a-palooza was courtesy of Ferdinand at Hotel Cervo in Zermatt.

Packing

T-minus five days until we leave.  Today we did the difficult task of trying to figure out what we are going to need for two months including 24 days of skiing.  Even more difficult, we had to figure out how to make it fit in our bags.  Luckily we practiced and came up with a good list and were able to make things fit.

The forecast for skiing looks pretty amazing.  Our first resort has already been evacuated twice because of two much snow.  With the weather we have been having in California that is a breath of fresh air.  Check out the snow report from Zermatt for today and the weather forecast going once we get there.