Tag Archives: Rome

Cow a Bunga

This morning was bittersweet.  We were very sad to say goodbye to Matt and Anna. We had such a great time with them exploring Rome. Maybe even too good of a time at points. That being said, Italy isn’t going to see itself, so we must move on. We left the apartment and headed to the train station to pick up our next rental car, the Alfa Romeo.

Southward bound! We got on the autostrada towards Naples and even though the weather was a little unsettled the scenery got more and more Spring like with green hills and flowering fruit trees everywhere. For quite a bit of the drive we had Vesuvius directly in front of us and eventually the ocean. Towards the end of drive we took a detour looking for food then Waze went on the fritz so we got a little lost around Salerno. Instead of driving the highway for the last 20 minutes we took the coastal route through fields and a ton of greenhouses with the ocean peaking out between the Cyprus groves that separated us from the beach.

When we got into Paestum, our destination for the day we were ready for lunch so we went directly to the buffalo farm called Caseficio Berlotti. We thought they’d just have a little store where we could buy some cheese or a snack but they actually had a really nice restaurant serving dishes based around meat and cheese from their herd, which were also hanging out in the paddock right by the window. After lunch we got to meet the buffalo, including the little babies, some of whom were born last week and were really, really cute.

Paestum is an archeological site like Pompeii except it never got buried in ash and also it’s not as crowded. (And there are the buffalos across the street). Now we’re in the hotel hanging out and the plan is tomorrow to check it out and also maybe see the beach if it’s warm enough.

We Came, We Saw…

Last night we went to a great fish restaurant called La Gensola. We had many different creatures of the sea over pasta. Also apparently judging from this photo we had some wine. Sara asked for a band photo and this is what she got.

After dinner we had a night cap at a wine store that had a few tables out front directly next to our apartment. The elderly owner was out going and spent the time cracking himself up teaching everyone Italian phrases.

This morning started slowly as we watched a thunder storm roll through and hung out at the apartment. We left for lunch and with a little pizza and white wine everyone was feeling much more equipped to tackle the Vatican.The line for the basilica was kind of long but it’s so impressive inside it was worth it. We also jumped the line accidentally at the Vatican Museum and got to see the Sistine Chapel before closing, along with a few other cool rooms. The map room was a favorite.

After all that churching and arting, we headed back to our neighborhood to have an Aperitivo at Freni e Frazione. They had quite the spread of food. Upon completion of our first drink, we headed to our next Aperitivo at caffe del Moro. Dinner tonight is at Taverna Trilussa Trastevere.

We’ve had so much fun here in Rome with Matt and Anna we are sad to say goodbye so we’ll just say “Roma, alla prossima” instead.

Roman Holidays

Last night Matt and Anna got in around 8pm and we had welcome drinks ready. The four of us enjoyed the night skyline from the top terrace of the Airbnb with a cocktail and then Matt and Anna freshened up from their flight before we went to dinner. Sara had made a reservation at a place around the corner recommended by our host called Il Duca in case they were up to going out after they arrived. The reservation was for 9:30/10 as the gentleman at the restaurant said but we ended up getting there around 10:30. The place was completely packed and it was probably better that we were late because they were able to seat us right away. The food was pretty good if not a little heavy and the portions were huge. We did get artichokes though (high five)

The Airbnb is in a very popular part of Rome that has tons of bars and restaurants, even after we finished dinner around midnight the streets were so full that it would have been hard to walk anywhere purposefully. Thankfully we were without purpose and so enjoyed meandering the streets filled with Romans and expats enjoying a relatively warm evening, spilling out of bars and restaurants, drinking wine and beer from plastic cups and bottles. We walked down to the river and watched the street musicians for a while and then headed back to the apartment for a nightcap on the terrace above the street.This morning was sort of overcast but warm, we had a coffee from the bar directly in front of the apartment before taking off for a day of sightseeing. Being Matt’s first trip to Europe we made sure to show him a bunch of cool old stuff on our way to the Coliseum. Unlike when we were here six years ago in January, today the major attractions were packed with people and the line was almost two hours long. We decided to buy the Roma Pass which gets you into a bunch of museums and archeological sights for discounted rates or free and allows you to jump the line. It also lets you ride the buses and metro for free so if you plan to see more than one or two places it’s a pretty good deal. Plus not waiting in line with street hawkers in your face for two hours has got to be worth something…

The sun was out and it was a great day to explore the Coliseum. After we heard a few of Dave’s art stories, it was time to go in search of lunch. We ate pizza at a place near the Pantheon, the restaurant was kind of weird but the pizza was ok (more flatbread than Neopolitan style). It started to sprinkle a little bit as we left lunch, but since we were right there we decided to go into the Pantheon (we confirmed the hole in the middle does not have glass in it when the sprinkle turned into a steady rain) and walked through Piazza Navona.

After that we turned back to the apartment, stopping on the way for a coffee and at the grocery store for wine. It’s now raining fairly heavily and we plan to sit on the terrace under the awning and watch it rain while enjoying said grocery store wine. A great way to spend a Sunday evening with friends!

All Roads Lead To…

This morning we woke up early and said goodbye to Assisi which really is a magical place. Also last night we had a great dinner at a place called Osteria la Piazzetta delle Erba, the food was a little more progressive than most places we’ve seen so far and almost all organic.

On our way out we stopped at Santa Maria degli Angeli which is a giant cathedral down in the valley below the main town and the Basilica. This cathedral is very important to Franciscans because the cathedral houses the church of San Damiano which is the broken down church St Francis rebuilt with his own hands (symobolic of his role in repairing the corruption of the church at that time based in Rome.) You walk into this huge cathedral and right in the middle of it under the dome is this tiny little medieval church. It was, in Dave’s words, quite incredible to see how moved the pilgrims who come from all over the world are when they see and touch the little church. He also called it the inception church. Also inside the cathedral is the stall where St Francis died, originally it was next to his church but now they are all under the same roof. There is also a rose garden which grows thornless roses and doves.

We got on the highway and were making really good time to Rome so we decided to stop in one of the Umbrian hill towns to kill some time before we could check in to our Airbnb. We picked Narni because it’s the namesake of the books but there wasn’t really anything that special about it. We walked around and the photos turned out ok, then we left. The drive took us through some really beautiful country between Umbria and Lazio. It’s starting to look like Spring the farther south we go, the fields are so green they look neon and some of the flowering trees are starting to blossom.

Getting into Rome by car is HECTIC. You get off the main autostrada and follow a bunch of roads that go in concentric circles around the city through the grimy periphery until eventually you get into the historical center. The strangest part is that once you do get to central Rome it hits you with all the highlights (Foro Romano, Circo Masssimo, random lesser ruins) immediately. We had to go around around Roman ruins to get into the parking lot of the Radison next to the train station where we were dropping the car. Dave does an excellent job driving in Europe and today was no exception, he kept his cool even in the crazy streets of Rome when our car sat nav gave us wrong directions and we had to navigate a little bit more old school.

After dropping the car we hopped in a taxi that took us to our Airbnb in the Trastevere. It’s a walk up but so worth it- there is a rooftop terrace with views all over the city (amazing sunset too!) It’s a good size place which is great because Matt and Anna are arriving in a few hours, yay! The location is really central to everything and we are looking forward to a fun few days here with them. We spent the afternoon walking around and had a late lunch of salads and artichoke (finally!) The city is full of people out and about enjoying the beautiful weather so there is great energy.