Tag Archives: Montepulciano

Assisi? Yea I see you.

We said goodbye this morning to Montepulciano. Luca, our host, stopped by to see us off and we drove out with sunny skies, off to our next destination in Assisi. Dave was a little relieved to be leaving Montepulciano having convinced himself that it was haunted. Totally understandable given all the old Etruscan tombs directly below the city and the eerie, super heavy fog that rolled in each night we were there.

The drive took about an hour and half, first on Tuscan country roads and then on the highway. It was very beautiful until we got to Perugia which is pretty industrial on the outskirts. We got into Assisi a little before noon. You can see it from the road, stuck on the side of a hill with the Basilica out on the far end. All the buildings are made out of a very light color stone so the town kind of glows white from far away.

After we parked the car we walked around and had lunch in town while we waited for our rental to be ready. The apartment has an incredible view of the castle Rocco Maggiore and also the church of San Rufino. It also had a fireplace so it’s really cozy. Once everything opened again for the afternoon hours we went food shopping for dinner, stopping in to visit St Francis’ birthplace and also had an apertivo at a cute wine bar right next door. Now we are enjoying a fire in the fireplace, the sun setting out the window and making dinner. Tomorrow we are planning to go to the Basilica and maybe the castle.

I Guess We Are Shipping Wine

After struggling to find something to eat for lunch yesterday and enjoying our home aperitivo, we headed on the town to find something to eat for dinner.  We ended up at Ristorante La Bricola next door to where we ate dinner the first night.  To be honest, we were a bit underwhelmed by the food.  Additionally, the bottle of wine we got was border line turned, but we waited too long before we both agreed it wasn’t good.

This morning we woke up and saw that a glimmer of hope that the rain would finally subside.  Unfortunately, we were wrong.

Luckily for us, we had a fun day planned of wine tasting and eating Italian food so it didn’t matter what the weather was like.  Our first stop was Montemecurio just outside of town.  When we pulled up, a scruffy teenager with an eye patch wearing sweat pants answered the door and looked at us very confused.  Concerned we had pulled up to somebody’s house and not a winery, we started to slowly backup.  In broken English, the teenager told us to wait.  After waiting outside the front door for two minutes, Irene came out and welcomed us into the house.  While it looked like a house, it was indeed the correct place.  The wine operation consists of 3 people.  One for the field, one for the winery, and one for the office.  Irene was an absolute pleasure to taste with.  She was quite gregarious and loved talking with us about skiing.  She stressed the importance of a bit of grappa before you hit the slopes.  Here we tasted 6 bottles of wine include a white and rose which is very rare in this red dominated region.  Everything was delicious and so affordable.  We ended up walking away with a half case.

After our first tasting, we headed to our lunch reservation in Monticchiello at Osteria La Porta.

Apparently, most people come to this little hill top village just for this restaraunt.  We were not disappointed.  Between the bacalla appetizier or the Cacio Pepe Gnocchi, everything was so good.  The atmosphere was also quite fun with a young temptress sitting behind us attempting to seduce the young waiter.  This included passing notes and lots of giggling.  Sara said she could have dressed cuter.  The staff was also quite generous here, they even gave us our half liter of wine for free.

After lunch, we headed back to the apartment for a quick rest before our next tasting.  Dave fell asleep during this time for a few minutes, because as you know, tasting wine is exhausting.  Refreshed and ready to go, we headed up to Gattevechi which is located right in town.

We met Daniela who is the one of three siblings who run the winery. In addition to working in the family business, Daniela used to teach Italian to foreign students at a school in Montepulciano so she was very excited about speaking with Sara and complimented her quite a bit on her Italian. They also spoke about their shared interest in vintage Cinecitta films.  Similar to other places in town, they had an extensive cellar that dates back to 300 BC.

After touring their small crypt, we tasted the wines.  Again, everything was quite good.  Daniella offered to help us ship all of our wine back including the bottles we purchased at other locations.

All in all, we ended up with two cases.

During our tasting, it finally stopped raining and the sun came out.  We now sit in our apartment for one last night and are looking at a beautiful sunset.  Tonight we are going to cook in.

Tomorrow we head to Assisi.

When it rains it pours, wine


Today we took the morning off and got up late.  Sara finally got the cold that Dave is just getting over so we took it easy. After getting up and having a coffee, we took a drive through the area surrounding Montepulciano, it’s very scenic even with the weather not being great (still raining). There’s a lot of sheep, some horses and cows and tons of wine. It’s much gentler than the northern areas we’ve been in and the soil (per Dave) is red clay with limestone.

We did a wine tasting at a family owned winery called Boscarelli. The local terroir is for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano which we learned today has to be a minimum of 70% Sangiovese. As Sangiovese is a very delicate grape most of the fermentation process is done in huge barrels or even in giant concrete tanks which mimics the old Etruscan method of fermenting in terra-cotta. The Rosso di Montepulciano, the Vino Nobile and the Riserva change in their blends and in the fermentation techniques but are all majority  Sangiovese. The operation reminded us a lot of the smaller family run wineries we visit in California like Keever and Canard where everyone does a little bit of everything from putting the back labels on bottles bound for the US to sorting bad grapes on the table during harvest.

We looked for restaurants around the winery but couldn’t find anything open close by as it was nearing the end of lunchtime so we came back to Montepulciano. Everything was closed here too but Dave was able to find a sandwich in a bar we split. After resting a while at home we went to another tasting in the cantina directly across the road from where we are staying called De’Ricci. While the the cantinas themselves were really interesting (they start at street level and go all the way down the ancient Estrucan caves deep below the city) the wine was just ok. We had the place all to ourselves and they were running a skeleton crew of just one who poured for us. She was a bit of character and after chatting together for a while she waived our tasting fees.

We are having an aperitivo at the apartment with wine we bought last night at the Locanda dei Nobile and some snacks, including pecorino which is made here (from all those sheep we saw earlier). The wine shop has a super knowledgeable staff and crazy amount of local wine- a fantastic shop that Mitch would love. From the street it just looks like a small wine shop with a sandwich counter but we ended up eating dinner there last night because down the stairs they have a giant, multi level cantina that’s been converted into a really cool restaurant.

Tomorrow we’ve booked a few more wine tastings and a lunch in a neighboring town.

Under the Tuscan Sun

The sun was shining this morning in Florence as we packed up for our next part of the trip.

There were lots of people out and about enjoying the weather, biking and running. We had a quick breakfast at the hotel and drove out of town in the direction of Siena with the hilltop town of Montepulciano our destination for today. The route out of Florence took us up into the hills on the Oltrearno side of town by the Pitti Palace and then into the Tuscan countryside. We passed lots of wineries and farms, a bike race and some very heavy industrial zones. When Sara spotted San Giminigano from the highway we decided to take a detour and stop there to look around. It was quiet and parking was easy so we spent an hour or so walking around and even had a gelato because the sun was out and it has warmed up considerably.

We got to admire all the towers and medieval alleys pretty much by ourselves. Sara also made this classic Cinecitta tribute short video

Leaving San Giminigano we got back on the highway, passing by Siena and Volterra on our way to Montepulciano. When we got into town our super nice Airbnb host, Lucca met us and caravanned with us up to the apartment because it’s in a restricted traffic area. This town is so cool and the apartment location is great. You enter the town about halfway down the hill and the walls enclose the rest of it around the top of the hill. The apartment is on the edge of town so the view out the windows is down onto the valley and smaller hills. Also, one of the big cantinas producing vino Nobile (the local wine) is literally across the street from the front door. We walked around a little and had lunch in at a very nice place called Le Lodge di Vignola. The plan was to eat dinner in but all the grocery stores in town are closed because it’s Sunday afternoon so we will probably have a light dinner out. Tomorrow the plan is to take a drive through the surrounding country and visit a winery in the afternoon.