Tag Archives: Assisi

All Roads Lead To…

This morning we woke up early and said goodbye to Assisi which really is a magical place. Also last night we had a great dinner at a place called Osteria la Piazzetta delle Erba, the food was a little more progressive than most places we’ve seen so far and almost all organic.

On our way out we stopped at Santa Maria degli Angeli which is a giant cathedral down in the valley below the main town and the Basilica. This cathedral is very important to Franciscans because the cathedral houses the church of San Damiano which is the broken down church St Francis rebuilt with his own hands (symobolic of his role in repairing the corruption of the church at that time based in Rome.) You walk into this huge cathedral and right in the middle of it under the dome is this tiny little medieval church. It was, in Dave’s words, quite incredible to see how moved the pilgrims who come from all over the world are when they see and touch the little church. He also called it the inception church. Also inside the cathedral is the stall where St Francis died, originally it was next to his church but now they are all under the same roof. There is also a rose garden which grows thornless roses and doves.

We got on the highway and were making really good time to Rome so we decided to stop in one of the Umbrian hill towns to kill some time before we could check in to our Airbnb. We picked Narni because it’s the namesake of the books but there wasn’t really anything that special about it. We walked around and the photos turned out ok, then we left. The drive took us through some really beautiful country between Umbria and Lazio. It’s starting to look like Spring the farther south we go, the fields are so green they look neon and some of the flowering trees are starting to blossom.

Getting into Rome by car is HECTIC. You get off the main autostrada and follow a bunch of roads that go in concentric circles around the city through the grimy periphery until eventually you get into the historical center. The strangest part is that once you do get to central Rome it hits you with all the highlights (Foro Romano, Circo Masssimo, random lesser ruins) immediately. We had to go around around Roman ruins to get into the parking lot of the Radison next to the train station where we were dropping the car. Dave does an excellent job driving in Europe and today was no exception, he kept his cool even in the crazy streets of Rome when our car sat nav gave us wrong directions and we had to navigate a little bit more old school.

After dropping the car we hopped in a taxi that took us to our Airbnb in the Trastevere. It’s a walk up but so worth it- there is a rooftop terrace with views all over the city (amazing sunset too!) It’s a good size place which is great because Matt and Anna are arriving in a few hours, yay! The location is really central to everything and we are looking forward to a fun few days here with them. We spent the afternoon walking around and had a late lunch of salads and artichoke (finally!) The city is full of people out and about enjoying the beautiful weather so there is great energy.

Castles to Terraces

So dinner last night was only OK. It was nice to eat just protein and not a pasta.  That being said, Dave woke up in the middle of the night with stomach pains.  Maybe the seafood wasn’t good?  Luckily, it just cost him a little bit of sleep. When he woke up, the stomach pain was gone.

‘This morning, we hiked up to the Castle Rocca Minore.  It is about a 10 minute walk from where we are staying mostly uphill. The castle looks over the entire town of Assisi and has some good views.

From the top we can still see some snow on the top of the hills from the freak snow storm that hit last week.  After catching some views, we hiked back down to the town.

Today the sun is actually out and it is nearly 60 degrees. From the wet cold days of before, this basically feels like summer.  We grabbed a bottle of wine and some to go focaccia and took it back to our place to sit out on the terrace. We spent the rest of the day up here enjoying the sun.

Tonight we go to dinner at Osteria Piazzetta dell’Erba. Tomorrow we have our longest drive yet to Rome at 3 hours where we will be meeting up with Matt and Anna. We are quite excited!

Francesco I think they mean Francisco

This morning we woke up with the plan to see the large church built to house the remains of Francesco.

 After walking through the town, we made it to the church and queued up our Rick Steve’s guided tour audio and set about the church.

It is quite impressive how large and the number of Frescos here.

Francesco started the Franciscan movement and also appreciated nature including animals.

After the church, Sara wasn’t feeling too hot.  The cold we both battled has turned out to be quite a doozy.  Therefore, we took a scenic walk back to the apartment and stopped to get the fixings to make some vegetable soup. After lunch, we tried to take it is easy so Sara can rest up and feel better.

Tonight we have to dinner at Ristorante il Vicoletto.

Assisi? Yea I see you.

We said goodbye this morning to Montepulciano. Luca, our host, stopped by to see us off and we drove out with sunny skies, off to our next destination in Assisi. Dave was a little relieved to be leaving Montepulciano having convinced himself that it was haunted. Totally understandable given all the old Etruscan tombs directly below the city and the eerie, super heavy fog that rolled in each night we were there.

The drive took about an hour and half, first on Tuscan country roads and then on the highway. It was very beautiful until we got to Perugia which is pretty industrial on the outskirts. We got into Assisi a little before noon. You can see it from the road, stuck on the side of a hill with the Basilica out on the far end. All the buildings are made out of a very light color stone so the town kind of glows white from far away.

After we parked the car we walked around and had lunch in town while we waited for our rental to be ready. The apartment has an incredible view of the castle Rocco Maggiore and also the church of San Rufino. It also had a fireplace so it’s really cozy. Once everything opened again for the afternoon hours we went food shopping for dinner, stopping in to visit St Francis’ birthplace and also had an apertivo at a cute wine bar right next door. Now we are enjoying a fire in the fireplace, the sun setting out the window and making dinner. Tomorrow we are planning to go to the Basilica and maybe the castle.