Tag Archives: Art

Pizza, Pasta, and Gelato

Today is sadly our last day of the Sabbatical.  We started the day by heading to the Palzzao Fortuny Museum.  The museum was quite cool.  It was the personal Palazzo of the Artist Fortuny.  They had a few other exhibits but the building itself was really cool.  The special exhibit was of Zoran Music.  Honestly, (this is Dave), I did not think his art was that impressive.  Sara liked it though.  The permanent exhibit I thought was really cool.  Fortuny designed a few theaters and there were models he developed which I also thought were really cool.

After visiting the museum, we headed to grab some Pizza.  We headed over to Birreria La Corte.  It was one of the few pizzerias on Venice that are allowed to burn wood.  Most are restricted to gas due to fire danger.  The pizza was quite delicious.

With the Pizza finished, we headed out to run some errands.  Even though our planned destinations were only a few 100 meters away, with poor directions each stop took about 15-20 minutes to get to.  One of the important stops was to grab some Gelato. We took this shot of relaxing gondoliers as we ate it.

Tonight we have a massage, followed by heading back to Osteria 4 Feri for some pasta and seafood.  Tomorrow morning we take the water taxi back to the airport and fly back to the States.  Because it was our last day it was important to us to make sure to eat Pizza, Pasta, and Gelato one last time.

Overall, this has been quite an amazing experience.  In numbers we have done:

  • 300+ Miles of Walking
  • 4000+ km of driving
  • 60+ Bottles of Wine (not all betweeen just the two of us)
  • 5 Cases of Wine successfuly shipped home
  • 100+ new words Dave has already forgotten in Italian
  • 3 Countries Visited
  • 6 Ski Resort Slayed
  • 40 Euro lost at gas stations
  • All of the Pizza, Pasta, and Cheese Consumed
  • 0 days we didn’t talk at length about what Joe and Penny were doing

60 days is a long time to spend on vacation.  Luckily, we both agree if we were to do it over again, there is not much we would have changed.  The skiing was epic and the road trip was an incredible experience. An interesting perspective is that it is rare for couples to spend 60 days without separation with their partner.  Usually you have to wait until retirement for that and even then you likely have some alone time when one runs out.  Luckily, Sara and I really enjoyed spending the time with each other.  Neither of us felt like we needed time apart or a break which I think is good.

I am very thankful for all of the hard work that Sara put in to earn this Sabbatical. Hopefully we get to do it again sometime in the future. What a long, strange trip it’s been and we can’t for the next one.

Alla prossima, Europe.

Spelunking through Matera

As we let on yesterday, Matera is quite an interesting place. From the outside of the buildings, they look like normal housing.  Once you step inside, you realize that it is just a facade in front of a deep cave.  This area used to be a really bad place to live.

 The Italian government stepped in the 1950s and kicked the entire city out.  Afterwards, some leases were granted in the 1980s but for the most part, the historical center of town consists of hotels and bed and breakfasts. That means that it is quite touristy here.

Even though it is touristy, it is still an incredible sight to see.  We went in to several church’s that were built in the 11 to 13th century.  Inside there are several frescos that date back to the same period.

As the town is built in the hillside there are a ton of stairs to venture across.

After finishing our Church visits, we headed to lunch at Osteria Pico.  Food was pretty good.  For dinner we will hit the town again and find something delicious.

 

We Came, We Saw…

Last night we went to a great fish restaurant called La Gensola. We had many different creatures of the sea over pasta. Also apparently judging from this photo we had some wine. Sara asked for a band photo and this is what she got.

After dinner we had a night cap at a wine store that had a few tables out front directly next to our apartment. The elderly owner was out going and spent the time cracking himself up teaching everyone Italian phrases.

This morning started slowly as we watched a thunder storm roll through and hung out at the apartment. We left for lunch and with a little pizza and white wine everyone was feeling much more equipped to tackle the Vatican.The line for the basilica was kind of long but it’s so impressive inside it was worth it. We also jumped the line accidentally at the Vatican Museum and got to see the Sistine Chapel before closing, along with a few other cool rooms. The map room was a favorite.

After all that churching and arting, we headed back to our neighborhood to have an Aperitivo at Freni e Frazione. They had quite the spread of food. Upon completion of our first drink, we headed to our next Aperitivo at caffe del Moro. Dinner tonight is at Taverna Trilussa Trastevere.

We’ve had so much fun here in Rome with Matt and Anna we are sad to say goodbye so we’ll just say “Roma, alla prossima” instead.

Roman Holidays

Last night Matt and Anna got in around 8pm and we had welcome drinks ready. The four of us enjoyed the night skyline from the top terrace of the Airbnb with a cocktail and then Matt and Anna freshened up from their flight before we went to dinner. Sara had made a reservation at a place around the corner recommended by our host called Il Duca in case they were up to going out after they arrived. The reservation was for 9:30/10 as the gentleman at the restaurant said but we ended up getting there around 10:30. The place was completely packed and it was probably better that we were late because they were able to seat us right away. The food was pretty good if not a little heavy and the portions were huge. We did get artichokes though (high five)

The Airbnb is in a very popular part of Rome that has tons of bars and restaurants, even after we finished dinner around midnight the streets were so full that it would have been hard to walk anywhere purposefully. Thankfully we were without purpose and so enjoyed meandering the streets filled with Romans and expats enjoying a relatively warm evening, spilling out of bars and restaurants, drinking wine and beer from plastic cups and bottles. We walked down to the river and watched the street musicians for a while and then headed back to the apartment for a nightcap on the terrace above the street.This morning was sort of overcast but warm, we had a coffee from the bar directly in front of the apartment before taking off for a day of sightseeing. Being Matt’s first trip to Europe we made sure to show him a bunch of cool old stuff on our way to the Coliseum. Unlike when we were here six years ago in January, today the major attractions were packed with people and the line was almost two hours long. We decided to buy the Roma Pass which gets you into a bunch of museums and archeological sights for discounted rates or free and allows you to jump the line. It also lets you ride the buses and metro for free so if you plan to see more than one or two places it’s a pretty good deal. Plus not waiting in line with street hawkers in your face for two hours has got to be worth something…

The sun was out and it was a great day to explore the Coliseum. After we heard a few of Dave’s art stories, it was time to go in search of lunch. We ate pizza at a place near the Pantheon, the restaurant was kind of weird but the pizza was ok (more flatbread than Neopolitan style). It started to sprinkle a little bit as we left lunch, but since we were right there we decided to go into the Pantheon (we confirmed the hole in the middle does not have glass in it when the sprinkle turned into a steady rain) and walked through Piazza Navona.

After that we turned back to the apartment, stopping on the way for a coffee and at the grocery store for wine. It’s now raining fairly heavily and we plan to sit on the terrace under the awning and watch it rain while enjoying said grocery store wine. A great way to spend a Sunday evening with friends!

Francesco I think they mean Francisco

This morning we woke up with the plan to see the large church built to house the remains of Francesco.

 After walking through the town, we made it to the church and queued up our Rick Steve’s guided tour audio and set about the church.

It is quite impressive how large and the number of Frescos here.

Francesco started the Franciscan movement and also appreciated nature including animals.

After the church, Sara wasn’t feeling too hot.  The cold we both battled has turned out to be quite a doozy.  Therefore, we took a scenic walk back to the apartment and stopped to get the fixings to make some vegetable soup. After lunch, we tried to take it is easy so Sara can rest up and feel better.

Tonight we have to dinner at Ristorante il Vicoletto.

I’m Seeing Double

Last night after we finished our post in the aperitif bar, we headed over to Il Pizzaiuolo for some Pizza.  The place was packed and the pizza was delicious.  Their house wine even came in a bottle with their name on it.

This morning we woke up early to make it to our appointment at the Academia. Unfortunately, today was forecasted to be another wet day so we bundled up and headed off to our appointment.

When we got there, much to Dave’s surprise, Michalangelo created a 15 foot tall sculpture of his likeness and named it after him.

Attached to the museum was a small room dedicated to musical instruments.  There was even a poster for this sweet renaissance metal band.  They really rocked the lute we hear.

After the museum, the next goal of the day was to find a barber as Dave’s beard had become a bit out of control.  We had a plan on where to go, but when we got there (before it opened) there was already an hour long wait.  Luckily, Dave saw a place that was essentially called styles by Toni.  When we got there, Dave asked if he spoke English, Toni did not.  Sara was nice enough to translate for him and told him exactly what he wanted instead of pranking him saying he wanted a mullet or some other crazy option.

After getting shorn, they headed off to the Medici Chapel to check out some old rich people’s graves.  There were also quite a bit of relics in here including many bones and even a finger.  Gross.

The Chapel was designed by Michalangelo and had quite a bit of his works. The coolest part was his hand drawn notes on the wall that are still there.

After the chapel we headed to the Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. This was a beautiful rennissance aged perfumeria/pharmacy that has been in continuous operation.  It was very beautiful. They even had a potion to help Sara but unfortunately they were all out.

Tonight we are off to eat some Sicilian food and tomorrow we leave Firenze for Montepulciano.

Arting with Dave

One thing that’s really awesome about traveling in the low season is the no lines part. Today we woke up and decided to check out the Uffizi galleries. The guidebooks all warn  about insane lines and advise to book ahead. There weren’t any available reservations for today but we decided to give it a try anyway. It was raining pretty hard this morning so a perfect day to spend arting it up with Dave.

 

Everything is within walking distance of our hotel which is awesome. After breakfast we walked along the Arno which looks a little rough due to the recent storms to the galleries. No lines. We just walked right in. (Art-tastic high fives all around!)

Thanks to a great recommendation from a Christine we downloaded the Rick Steve’s free podcast to guide our visit. It always is so overwhelming when you go to famous museums like this and see masterpieces you can as about in books right in front of you (I.e. Venus on the half shell). It’s also an extra special experience going with Dave who likes to make up his own stories and histories of the various works, so special that it may need its own podcast someday called Arting with Dave.

After the Uffizi we went to the Duomo where there was a line. The line gave us a chance to admire the exterior of the Duomo, the campanile and the Baptistry which really are quite stunning. Then we went inside and I instantly remembered from the last time I was here when I was in middle school I think 1) how giant it is and 2) how drab it is compared to some of gilded palaces you see in Christiandom.

After the Duomo we headed back to the hotel on the non-touristy side of the Arno. We ate at Trattoria Cent’ori. Our surely waiter slammed down the menu which was a prix fix consisting of a primi and secondi for 10€. Thinking we ordered too much food, Dave got a pasta and Sara got soup followed by salt cod. It was all so good and we did not feel stuffed afterwards.

We rested this afternoon and in the early evening went back up in search of a haircut and beard trim for Dave. They were fully booked so we decided to meander towards cocktail hour which is where we write this post currently to you all, gentle readers.

Also, last night we walked around a bit on a super fancy shopping street before dinner then stopped in a dive bar full of expats called Green Street Bar. So full of expats that they take USD to Euro at a 1:1 exchange rate. One of the girls there let us cuddle her very adorable golden retriever/ dachshund mix named Sonny who was quite friendly and happy to oblige our current puppy snuggle deficiency. We had dinner at a seafood restaurant we found on Eater called Vivo. The food was ok but the restaurant looked like a mall food court. So yea…we’ll be moving away from Eater recos for the rest of the trip and relying on our tried and true method of finding good restaurants in Italy. If there are tradesmen there, it’s good. If there are dogs in the restaurant, also good.

Tomorrow morning we have an appointment for Dave to meet the David. A dopo!