Tag Archives: alpine exposure

Storming the Castle

Today we all took the day off from skiing to do a little sightseeing and wine tasting around the Valley.

We started the day with a coffee and pastry at a bar across from the apartment (very traditional Italian breakfast) and then jumped in the car and headed down the valley. A bluebird day, much different than the wintry mix we drove up under, made the valley look a lot different and more inviting. At the base of the Ayas valley where we are staying is the town of Verres. There’s a pretty cool castle there you can see from the road so we decided to check it out. The drive took us through the old part of the town which was small but cute and still decorated from Carnivale. The castle sits above the old town on a hill (if you recall from a previous post you can see the neighboring castles along the valley so they sit up a little above the towns). The visit was very reasonable so we decided to go in. Glad we did, it was really well preserved and very cool. Nice view of the mountains too.

From the castle we took the autostrada to the regional capital Aosta. We had a nice walk through the historic area which includes the old Roman city walls and then had lunch. The mountains are visible all around the city.

Leaving Aosta after lunch we headed to a wine tasting appointment Jeff made for a winery called Grosjean. The winery is family run and one of the original modern day wineries in the Aosta region. The grandfather, Dauphine, started making wine in the late 60s, reviving a wine business in the region that had gone away in the previous century. Our visit was hosted by Simone, one of the grandchildren still active in running the family business. He was very knowledgeable and it was fascinating afternoon. The family, along with others in the region, are dedicated to bringing back many of the indignious grapes to the area that haven’t been cultivated in a long time. Their wine is available in the US (one of their whites is on the menu at Al’s Place in SF) so check it out!

We spent a while at the winery chatting with Simone and tasting the wines so when we finally left we decided to grab stuff for dinner at the grocery store down in the valley and cook a simple dinner at home. Dave, Sara and Jeff are confirmed on their helicopter tomorrow morning early so it’s a quiet night in Champoluc. Karen is headed to a spa and Christine and Nate have another day planned on the slopes.

Skiing with a Guide Part 1

Today started as a great day.  Dave finally woke up and didn’t feel extremely congested.  After some breakfast, we met up with our guide for the day: David from Alpine Exposure.  After a short walk we took the funicular up about 1000m followed by a cable car, followed by a very old tram.  The tram itself is basically only there for guides and we were the only ones on it.  Once we reached the top (3200m), it opened up on to a beautiful field of powder.  As we skied it, I kept asking myself, where is everybody else?  In California the snow would be all tracked out and there would be nothing soft left.  Note: it has been over a week since they had much snow.  While this area had some tracks, there was plenty of areas where we had long distances of completely untracked powder.  The snow was a bit heavy here and it certainly was a thigh burner.  Additionally, the runs were long.  Very long.  After two laps through this area it was already getting in to the afternoon.  Below is a photo our guide took of Dave skiing out of a small coulier in powder.

Next stop was a quick break to warm up and hyrdate.  We stopped at the Blue Lounge and had a hot water and lemon, and then we were off to try to eat lunch in Italy.  Skiing from the western side of the mountain to the eastern side of the mountain takes at least an hour.  That hour is all skiing.  Once we got to the eastern side of the mountain, it was time to take the tram up to the top of the Matterhorn Glacier (3883m). This is the highest lift in all of Europe.  Up here it was cold.   I didn’t see a thermometer but it felt like it might have been colder than yesterday which was -11f.  The elevation didn’t hit us too bad, but you could tell that you were feeling a bit loopy. From there we skied down to Italy and stopped for some lunch at the Rifugio Teodulo which was at 3317m.  The combination of the altitude and not eating until almost 3pm made for a very interesting time.  The bar was very cool.  We sat on the guide side which is less fancy than the restaraunt but had much more character.  We also learned that you can book rooms at this rifugio which also seemed really cool.  We ate some sort of combination of semolina dumplings and French onion soup, and it was so good!

After refueling, it was time to head back towards Zermatt rushing to catch the last chair to bring us up for skiing some powder on the glacier on our way home.  To be honest, Dave’s legs were very shot on this ride back to the town.  It was about 4:30 and we had been skiing basically nothing but powder (some of which was heavy and/or chopped up) and his legs were dying.  At this point, we ducked a rope and skied out on to the glacier to a wide open, untracked, powder field of powder that was much lighter.  After skiing down it, we both commented that it was something we will remember for the rest of our lives.  The skiing was super crusie-y and really fun!  As we worked our way down, there got to be a point that Dave had to throw in the towel.  He feared hurting himself as the skiing was somewhat technical and his legs did not have the gas left.  Luckily before we stopped, we were able to get a picture of the three of us.

After making it to the next gondola, it was time to hitch a ride back to the village.  We left the hotel at 9 am and got back at 5:30.  It was a really long day.  David was an awesome guide and we are hoping to ski with him again on Wednesday after they get a nice refresh of new snow tonight and tomorrow.  Below is a map where I tried to remember what lifts we took and generally what we skied.  Yellow are the lifts and the green is generally what we skied.  I promise that this map does not do any justice on the shear distance we skied.  I am guessing this is maybe the most vertical feet I have ever skied in a day.

After skiing we headed down to the spa in our hotel.  Unfortunately, what we thought was a hot tub was more of a warm tub.  Interestingly, it had these beds you lay on and it percolates ice cold water out of them.  Maybe people are in to that, we were not.  After a quick Sauna, we headed back to the room to drink some wine we purchased the day before.  Also, it was coed naked, but us prude Americans wore our bathing suits.

Blog notes: I apologize about the large amount of text.  Unfortunately, we were too busy skiing so we didn’t take many photos.  Also, we will likely tag on our dinner experience on to tomorrow’s blog post as we are likely going to be too tired after we get back from dinner.

Ciao for now.